Trek-outside of Sa Pa day 2 Sunday, December 30, 2012 next blog previous blog
travel 2012 travel 2013 neuage.org ALL TRAVEL
Vietnam December Blogs: First blog in Vietnam December 21; Christmas Day Hanoi December 25; Sapa Day 1 December 26; Sapa Trekking 1 December 27; Sapa Trekking 2 December 28; Cat Cat Village, Sapa December 29, 2012; Guangzhou January 02 2013
Slideshow of Hanoi photos. Photo slideshow of Sapa. For slideshow of 'on your bike' biking around Hanoi. Slideshow of Hội An
Videos: Hoian (youtube); Black H'mong tribal village of Sapa, (youtube); Hanoi (youtube); Christmas Eve in Hanoi (youtube); Cat Cat (on youtube); Sapa (youtube)
We said we wanted an easier walk
today from yesterday’s trek up and down the local hills (mountains to my legs)
through the rice paddies of Lao Chai and Ta
Van Village. We hiked with the
Henderson, from Liverpool, who we met and trekked with yesterday, at breakfast
and we all decided to have another go and village hopping. They are on the way
to stay with their daughter who has started a language school in Siem Reap, Cambodia, using her own money.
Our guide was an 18 year from the Black H’mong people (they wear black clothing). We said to her at
the start that we did not want to buy stuff because the day before we were
followed and hassled so much – and we did buy a lot of stuff yesterday – we
just wanted to trek and be left alone. She said whatever to everyone that came
at us and we had a great day of walking, talking and of course climbing up and
down so much.
I took a lot of photos of children, something I
rarely do as in some places people get really upset. When we were in Guatemala
we were warned not to take photos of children because they get kidnapped and
sold to Americans; we could have gotten beaten, killed or worse – they would
have taken our camera. But here no one seemed to mind. I have posted some in an
album in Facebook and Google+ and in my Flickr account in this set http://www.flickr.com/photos/neuage/sets/72157632393552028/ and I will have more in my webpage for this trip when I get
home to Dalian China next week @ http://neuage.us/2012/Vietnam
Our guide, perhaps Vivvie
– that is what we called her, which was close to what we think she said her
name was, and she was OK with that was really good at answering our so many
questions. Her English was quite good and she humoured
our lame humour.
On Saturday nights in Sa
Pa they have the ‘love market’. We kidded her about going tonight to it and she
said ‘but no one wants me’. We of course said that was not true and when we
passed some young male who looked at her we would say ‘maybe you should meet
him at the love market’ and she would laugh and say no. Actually a lot of
people in her tribe get married through arranged marriages and she is planned
on going to Hanoi to university next year to start a teaching degree (gosh darn
who in their right mind would want to do such a thing?) and come back and teach
in her local village.
Here is a little about the Sa Pa love market
that I borrowed and stole and amended from the world wide web;
“Sa pa is famed for its "Love Market" – sort of a cross between
a peacock mating ritual, a Middle Eastern arms bazaar, an Amish square dance, a
bad Pavarotti concert and Bangkok's Patpong (except
here the people wear clothes). On Saturday nights, Red Dao hill tribe youths of
both sexes congregate in a weekly courting rite, singing tribal versions of
Loretta Lynn love songs to woo the opposite sex. The songs are highly
personalized and boast of the composer's physical attributes, domestic
abilities and strong work ethic. While Dao women are indeed highly industrious,
the men, it seems, prefer to spend most of their time drinking, smoking opium
or sleeping, only occasionally slapping the rump of a lethargic bovine moving
more slowly than they are. Few of their songs, though, are about drinking,
smoking opium, sleeping or slapping rumps.” Lifted from http://www.sapatrain.com/local_market_sapa_laocai_vietnam.html
We did go through the market and saw much
carrying-on Saturday night – with a group of males playing instruments and
dancing in the church square, see photo below.
I saw this woman in the local stream washing her clothes and I am not sure what she thinks of being single by the words on the back of her tee shirt
I asked Vivvie lots
of questions – I don’t remember many at the moment but some were:
“Are there police/law-enforcement people in
your village?” She said there wasn’t and the village didn’t need them. Having
lived in the States for 40-plus years and Australia some 22 years and now China
it is difficult thinking that a society could exist without law enforcement.
What is wrong with a village where people do the right thing? Surely they
should have automatic rapid-firing machine guns like they do in the States
available to everyone. Surely there are people who murder, rape, steal and
generally misbehave. I think all the villagers should go live in New York City
or any city in the States for a year to learn how to live with other humans.
She said she was a Buddhist, of course that explains it – one of those
hippy-like religions where people respect each other and don’t kill animals for
food or each other for sport. Those tripped out belief systems where people
care for one another and work together. No wonder the Yanks bombed Hanoi and Vivvie said they bombed Sa Pa too
– we cannot have people running around like this who respect one another and
who look after their environment and who are not materialistic wanting more and
more. Can you imagine being happy living in a house like this?
Really, look how stressed out these kids look who are not playing on their iPhones or laptops…
Vivvie said there people have been in this area for about 1500 years doing pretty much the same stuff. What has changed in the villages, or most of them, is that they have electricity and television but most people do not watch and they are too busy living life to stay inside and spend time on the Internet and watching TV. Tourism is changing life in that people have money but she did not say much about what they do extra in the past few years with the influx of Westerners. She said she thought she would get paid ten-dollars for today’s tour – which was about five hours with us. The Hendersons and we each gave her five bucks which equals her day’s salary. She refused the money but we insisted.
She said that when a woman got married she had
to live with the husband in his village. There is intermarriage between
villages but it is the husband’s village that is home. She said she would not
get married until after her uni but at 18 years old
and not having lived in a city I wonder how much of that will remain. She said
when people do leave the village they almost all come back. Even though she seemed quite liberated she
said most definitely she would live with her husband’s tribe if she married
someone from another village.
There are a lot of languages but I think about
six main ones in this area and they do not understand other languages but they
all learn Vietnamese and now English. So they communicate with each other.
One thing that is so different from our
glorious Western ways is that people barter and help each other out in
emergency no wonder America was out bombing them and the communists hated them.
There seems to be a lot of tension between the communists and the H’mong people though I think it is the ones in Laos that
have had the most trouble according to the Internet.
Last year there was snow for the first time in
memory or some-such-time-period and a lot of water buffalo died. They are
expensive and a primary part of the life in the villages. The people have
gotten together to help each other out giving rice and etc.
Of course we were interested in how does one
buy land and live in such a great environment. Apparently one can buy land and
live here – something worth exploring.
Well off to Hanoi and another overnight train.
I am sure I will write more about our visit to Sa Pa but this is all for today.
Of course we were interested in how does one buy land and live in such a great environment. Apparently one can buy land and live here – something worth exploring.
We bought a lot over the three days here and got a large embroidered bag from the Flower Hmong
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